Xiabu, a little-known linen for textilephiles

Everyone knows linen is that girl of lighter fabrics - not only is she lightweight and durable, linen is also hypoallergenic, naturally anti-bacterial, anti-static (aka pet-friendly), and pill-proof. Unlike wool, linen won’t attract moths. Plus, she’s plant-based.

Linen is the oldest fabric in existence. Traditionally, linen is produced from the inner bark, or bast fibers, of flax plants. After being popularized in ancient Egypt, it was dispersed to China among other countries through trade routes.

Enter: Xiabu. Literally meaning “summer fabric”, Xiabu is a type of linen made from ramie. Ramie is a plant similar to the flax, hemp, mulberry family; known as “Chinese grass”, ramie is native to China, making Xiabu a truly Chinese product through and through.

For the most part, Xiabu production relies largely on handiwork and artisanal craftsmanship. In fact, the weaving and use of Xiabu cloth can be traced back roughly 1,000 years to the Eastern Zhou dynasty and reached its prime during the Western Han dynasty, during which it was favored by Chinese nobility in warmer months.

a few step within the complex process of creating xiabu from Jiangnan Buyi

Today, Xiabu production is split between family-owned small businesses and larger manufacturers based around Rongchang in Chongqing province, which is also known for pottery making and fan folding art. In 2019, Xiabu was listed as a national-level intangible cultural heritage item in China. Since that designation, Xiabu began to catch wind once more among Chinese, South Korean, and Japanese markets in the form of socks, clothing, bags, fans, and other accessories.

We are so excited to introduce this unique cultural art to a broader audience. Keep an eye out for Xiabu items to shop in ODDCO!